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Sandıklardan topladığı asırlık kıyafetleri çoğaltarak geleceğe taşıyor

Sandıklardan topladığı asırlık kıyafetleri çoğaltarak geleceğe taşıyor
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23.08.2022

İZMİR (AA) – EFSUN ERBALABAN YILMAZ – Anadolu'yu adım adım dolaşan geleneksel el sanatları usta öğreticisi Atilla Özkan, çeyiz sandıklarında saklanan cepken, şalvar, peşkir, camedan gibi giysileri koruma altına alarak geleceğe taşımak için çaba gösteriyor.

Manisa'da 1965 yılında dünyaya gelen Atilla Özkan, genç yaşta başladığı halk oyunları dansçılığı sırasında geleneksel ve yöresel kıyafetlere ilgi duymaya başladı.

Oynadığı halk oyunlarının yörelerine uygun kostüm arayışına başlayan Özkan, dükkanlarda ve terzilerde istediği kıyafetlere ulaşamayınca Anadolu'nun ücra köylerine giderek kapı kapı dolaştı.

Müzisyenlik ve oyunculuk yönleri de bulunan Özkan, turneleri sırasında da çevreden, yemeni, mendil, şalvar, peşkir, camedan, körüklü çizme, yöresel başlık, takı gibi giysi ve aksesuarları topladı.

Yaklaşık 40 yıl boyunca topladıklarını bir koleksiyon haline getiren Özkan, gelecek nesillere aktarmak için tüm parçaların kalıbını çıkardı, her birini yeniden dikti ve teker teker oyalarını işledi.

Tire Halk Eğitim Merkezinde Geleneksel El Sanatları ve Unutulmaya Yüz Tutmuş El Sanatları Usta Öğreticisi olarak görev yapan Özkan, Kültür ve Turizm Bakanlığı, belediyeler ve diğer resmi kurumların organizasyonları için geleneksel kıyafetler de dikiyor.

– Orijinaline sadık kalıyor

İzmir MTK Sitesi'ndeki atölyesinde geleneksel kıyafetlerden oluşan koleksiyonunu saklayan ve yenilerini üreten Atilla Özkan, AA muhabirine, Mardin'den Giresun'a, Konya'dan Trakya'ya tüm Türkiye'yi dolaştığını, köylerdeki yaşlılardan eski düğünleri, kostümleri ve ezgileri öğrendiğini söyledi.

Yaşlıların evlerindeki asırlık sandıklardan çıkan geleneksel kostümleri topladığını anlatan Özkan, şunları kaydetti:

"Elimiz ayağımız tuttuğu sürece dolaşacağız. Çünkü bu bizim hem hobimiz hem yaşam biçimimiz artık. Köyleri dolaşırken yüzlerce, binlerce yemeni, çevre, yağlık, peşkir, mendil elimize geçti. Oralarda giyilen cepkenleri, üç etekleri, başlıkları, takıları koleksiyonumuza kattık.

Bunlar, kızların giderken yanlarında götürdükleri çeyizler. Anadolu'da çeyiz serme adeti vardır. Gelinlik kızlar çeyizlik peşkirler, mendiller hazırlar ve düğünden birkaç gün önce çeyiz serilir. Bu da gelinin maharetini, elinin becerisini ortaya koyar. 100 yıllık, 110 yıllık, 120 yıllık parçalar var elimizde. Tamamen elle üretilmiş, üzeri sim, sırmaları makine kullanılmadan üretilmiş özel parçalar."

– Yöresel desenlerden günlük giysilere geçiş

Özkan, geleneksel kıyafetlere olan ilgisinin koleksiyonculuktan daha ileri olduğunu, bu kültürü günümüze taşımak istediğini ifade ederek, sakladığı parçaları orijinaline en yakın şekilde günümüz teknolojisiyle yeniden ürettiğini anlattı.

Sadece kıyafetleri değil, takıları, başlıkları ve körüklü çizmeleri de atölyede yeniden yaptıklarını belirten Özkan, resmi kurumlara, üniversitelere sipariş üzerine üretim yaptıklarını aktardı.

Özkan, yurt dışından da müşterilerinin olduğunu ifade ederek, "Türk cumhuriyetlerinden ya da komşu ülkelerden gelenler oluyor. Bulgaristan, Romanya, Yunanistan, Makedonya'ya özel kostüm çalışmalarımız var." diye konuştu.

Zengin Anadolu kültürünü gelecek kuşaklara taşımak ve kostümlerin sergilendiği bir müze kurmak istediğini dile getiren Özkan, şöyle devam etti:

"Amacım geleneksel giysilerin popüler hale gelmesini sağlamak. Yurt dışında insanlar, yöresel kıyafetlerle festivallere katılıyor. Maalesef bu Türkiye'de kalmamış artık. Ukrayna'da bizim Anadolu'da da çok yaygın olan bir kanaviçe tekniği var. Herkes gömlekler, cepkenler giyiyor, yelekler giyiyor, takımlar, elbiseler giyiyor, hepsi kanaviçe. Ama maalesef Anadolu'da kalmamış. Bir yandan da amacım bu geleneksel giysilerin biraz popüler hale gelmesini sağlamak. Müzecilik anlayışıyla yöresel desenlerden esinlenerek günlük giysiler üretip insanların giymesine yönelik çalışmalar da yapmak istiyorum."

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