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Tescilli “İzmir kumrusu” lezzet tutkunlarının vazgeçilmezi oluyor

Tescilli “İzmir kumrusu” lezzet tutkunlarının vazgeçilmezi oluyor
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02.08.2022

İZMİR (AA) – HALİL FİDAN – Coğrafi işaret tesciliyle korunan sokak lezzeti İzmir kumrusu, günün her öğününde soğuk veya sıcak olarak tüketiliyor.

Kentteki fırınlarda nohut mayası kullanılarak yapılan kumru ekmeği, orta kısmı daha geniş ve uç kısımlarına doğru incelen yapısıyla şekil olarak kuşun gövdesine benzediği için bu isimle anılıyor.

İzmir kumrusu, en önemli özelliği olan üzeri susamlı ekmeğin içine İzmir tulum peyniri, domates ve yeşil biber konularak soğuk sandviç veya kızarmış sucuk, salam ve kaşarla sıcak sandviç olarak servis edilebiliyor.

Yaklaşık 150 yıldır yapıldığı bilinen kumrunun sıcak olarak servisinin 1940'lardan sonra yaygınlaştığı ifade ediliyor.

Kızartılmış ekmeğin içine mangalda pişirilen sucuk ve salam dilimleri, eritilmiş kaşar ve domatesin konmasıyla hazırlanan sıcak kumru, İzmir'in önde gelen turizm merkezi Çeşme'nin de markalaşmış sokak lezzetleri arasında yer alıyor.

Sıcak kumrunun içine tercihe göre sosis, salça veya turşu gibi malzemeler de eklenebiliyor.

İzmir Ticaret Odasının girişimleriyle 2017 yılında Türk Patent ve Marka Kurumunca coğrafi işaretle tescillenen İzmir kumrusu, birçok noktada bulunan büfe ve seyyar tezgahlardan alınabiliyor.

– İşin sırrı nohut mayasında

Kentte İzmir kumrusuyla markalaşmış fırınlar ve ustalar da bulunuyor.

Tarihi Kemeraltı Çarşısı'nda "Kumrucu Apo" olarak bilinen 70 yaşındaki Abdullah Mete'nin büfesi de önünden kuyruk eksik olmayan mekanlar arasında yer alıyor.

Ününün yayılmasıyla sadece lezzetli kumru yemek için gelen çok sayıda insanı ağırlayan Abdullah Mete, AA muhabirine, yaptığı işi çok sevdiğini söyledi.

Kumru ekmeğinin püf noktasının nohut mayası olduğuna dikkati çeken Mete, kaliteli malzemeyle hazırlanmış bir kumrunun hemen fark edildiğini anlattı.

Müşterisinin eksik olmadığını, zaman zaman talebe yetişmekte zorlandıklarını dile getiren Mete, şöyle konuştu:

"Malzeme olarak Kars kaşarı ve Tire sucuğunu tercih ediyoruz yani hep en iyi malzemeleri seçiyoruz. Sıradan malzemeyi kullanmam. Eski usul devam ediyoruz. Saat 06.30'da geliyoruz, mangalımızı yakıyoruz, saat 08.00 gibi servisimiz başlıyor, akşam 19.00'a kadar işimize devam ediyoruz. Kumruya ilgi çok fazla, özellikle yazın müşterimiz daha çok oluyor. Basmane'deki tarihi fırından ekmekleri getiriyoruz. Kendimi büyük görmeyeyim ama rakip tanımıyorum."

– "Herhangi bir fırın çıkaramıyor bu ekmeği"

Konak ilçesinde yaklaşık 40 yıldır İzmir kumrusu yapan Mehmet Yenigün de bu lezzetin kente özgü olduğunu, son dönemde diğer büyük kentlerde de kumru yapıldığını ancak İzmir'deki tadın yakalanamadığını ifade etti.

Kumrunun üretim süreçlerinin tescil belgesinde ayrıntılı şekilde anlatıldığını dile getiren Yenigün, coğrafi işaretin ürünün korunması açısından çok önemli olduğunu söyledi.

Mehmet Yenigün, kumrunun her vakit tüketilebildiğine dikkati çekerek, şunları kaydetti:

"Kente gelen herkes bu lezzeti soruyor, özellikle yurt dışından gelen ziyaretçiler kumruyu seviyor. Kumru her zaman yenilen bir ürün, geceleri eğlenceden çıkan da yiyor, gündüz kahvaltıda da yeniliyor. Biz 1984 yılından beri bu işi yapıyoruz. Kaliteli malzeme kullanıyoruz, ekmeğimiz özel geliyor. Herhangi bir fırın çıkaramıyor bu ekmeği."

Kumru ustası Ali Yetişkin ise kaliteli İzmir kumrusu ekmeğinin nohut mayasıyla yapıldığını ve kömür ateşinde pişirildiğini belirterek, "Ustası önemli, herkesin eli maşa tutar ama ustalar farklı. Bu işin sırrı; kömür, usta ve güler yüz… Türkiye'nin farklı illerinde de yapılır ama bu işin başkenti İzmir'dir." ifadelerini kullandı.

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